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Every Tuesday, Britain's leading nutritionist explains how to eat your way to health. This week, Jane explains why calorie counting is so misleading...
For the overweight - or anyone concerned about what’s in their food - eating out is always a minefield. You never know what’s gone into your food, and even apparently ‘healthy’ salads can contain high amounts of fat and calories.
So, when the Government announced recently that it wants restaurants and fast food outlets to come clean and tell us what’s in the food they’re selling, it seemed like a good idea.
I’m all for halting the obesity epidemic in its tracks. But the problem is that these restaurants only have to disclose how many calories are in their meals - nothing else.
Calorie war: Restaurants are under pressure to reveal the calorie content of their meals, but many people don't realise that there's far more to healthy food than a low calorie number All this will start is a calorie war, a bit like the current price war between them. What many people don’t realise is there’s far more to a food’s healthiness than a low calorie number.
Even more worrying is the effect this will have on the quality of the food. It will encourage food outlets to process food more, as this can reduce the total calorie intake.
For instance, they can add poorer-quality ingredients than the original food would have contained, or use ‘filler’ ingredients such as salt or modified starch, which thickens the consistency of the food but has no nutritional value.
An obvious example would be lasagne, where rusk could be used as a filler instead of meat because it has fewer calories. The manufacturers then make up for the lack of taste by adding lots of salt and sugar - which is hardly healthy eating.
And just because a food is lower in calories doesn’t mean it’s going to help you to lose weight - if it was that easy, we wouldn’t have the obesity crisis we have.
Lower-calorie foods are often less satisfying - within an hour of eating them, you’re hungry, so you eat something else.
What’s still unclear is whether the food will be labelled with number of calories per serving. This is vital, as we’re all eating huge portions these days - the slices of cake on offer in many coffee shops are enough to feed two or three people.
If the calorie content is quoted per 100g, many people won’t realise the enormous number of calories they’re tucking away. And it’s this simple equation of what you put in your mouth versus calories burned that will determine whether you’ll lose any weight.
It would be far better to insist that restaurants and fast food outlets declare the fat, protein, salt, sugar and fibre levels of all their foods, so we’d have the whole nutritional story in front of us.
This is what’s happening in supermarket and pre-packaged goods, which display either the traffic light system (red for high amounts of a nutrient, green for low), or a percentage of the daily amount of a nutrient we should be eating.
Rather than pour money into this ill thought-out restaurant initiative, we should educate schoolchildren about nutrition and teach them how to cook healthy food.
However, it’s also vital we get out of the ‘I want food now, and I won’t wait’ mindset, which leads us to grabbing a takeaway on the way home.
It’s only once all these things have been dealt with that we have a real chance of helping people sort out their weight problems.
KIDNEY PROBLEM? BOIL YOUR VEGETABLES
Can you suggest some recipes that are low in potassium? My daughter has kidney problems and has been advised to stick to a low potassium diet. Helen O’Callaghan, Dorset.
Jane says... Potassium has many functions in our body, but its main role is to regulate blood pressure and keep our muscles working properly.
Our kidneys are supposed to excrete the excess; if they’re unhealthy, it’s important to limit the potassium intake, as too much can interfere with the functioning of the heart, causing a heart attack.
Foods rich in potassium include fruits, vegetables, wholegrain, nuts, pulses, dairy products, meat and fish - precisely the foods we’re usually told to eat, and your daughter needs them for allround general health.
Tricks to reduce the amount of potassium in your daughter’s food include boiling fruit and vegetables in lots of water so it leeches out, and not using the water for stock.
Avoid low-salt stock cubes (or salt substitutes such as Lo-Salt) - they can seem like a healthy alternative, but they’re very high in potassium.
PEA AND SPINACH RISOTTO
SERVES 4
Boiling vegetables in lots of water, as for a risotto, leeches out potassium100g frozen peas; 100g spinach; 20g pack of fresh mint; 3 tbsp creme fraiche; 1 litre vegetable stock; 1 tbsp olive oil; 2 salad onions, chopped; 350g risotto rice; 150ml white wine (or if you can’t drink alcohol, replace with stock); 50g Parmesan cheese, finely grated; Freshly ground black pepper
Cook peas in boiling water for two minutes and drain. Cook spinach for just long enough to wilt it, then drain and put into a food processor with the peas, mint and creme fraiche. Blend until smooth. In a large pan, heat stock until it simmers. Heat olive oil in a large pan, add onions and cook for two minutes, until soft. Stir in rice, pour in wine and allow to bubble. Add a ladle of hot stock and cook until all liquid is absorbed, stirring constantly. Continue to stir in all the stock, ladle by ladle, until the rice is creamy. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Add green puree to the rice and stir gently to combine. Season and serve.
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